Wednesday, April 11, 2018

Auténtico

THE  'REAL'  STUFF
Da Pop Vernacular
ask from whence
AUTHENTIC MEXICAN FOOD
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.. We are blessed with some of the best neighbors that could be wished for.
.. They go fishing, they work hard, they have loving families and - very important - they celebrate everything with food.
.. We are privileged to partake of some of the festivities as well as the day-to-day celebratory feasts.
.. Many of the neighbors are from Mexico. Some are from Peru. Some are from Russia.
.. Some are American citizens. Some are permanent resident aliens. Some are are long term visitors. Some are transient workers with the notorious "GREEN CARD."
.. One of the big jokes, (and a topic filled with considerable mirth,) is the North American vernacular phrase "AUTHENTIC MEXICAN FOOD."
.. It's uttered by folks that have never been to Mexico. It's applied to the Americanized fare served up to folks in the United States by fast food emporia, advertising hype, and bloggers with puffed up chests.
.. Last night, after we'd had a few and were laughing about бефстроганов befstróganov (Beef Strogonav:) - named after Alexander Grigoriyevich Stroganov.
ORIGINAL STROGONAV=mustard / no mushrooms
.. It was an interesting and lively conversation in a room full of Mexicans with the addition of a single Russian and a solitary Italian.
.. Of course the 'authentic' beef stroganov from Russia is far different from that served in the Russian Tea Room in New York. But that is another story.
.. Most of the conversation was about Mexican food. Not the borderlands food of the Tex-Mex variety, nor the stuff from Southern California nor, Arizona or, New Mexico. All do, seemingly,  have claims to their own "AUTHENTICS."
CONTEMPORARY REGIONAL CLASSIFICATION
.. But, and it's a big BUT, There are many diverse parts of Mexico with many regional dishes that seldom if ever make it to the lips of folks talking about authentic Mexican food.
.. A few things can generally be said about the food from Mexico: it is usually augmented with chili peppers, (Ají picante,) it has beans of some sort, it includes corn, (tortillas count,) tomatoes, and it is served in quantity.
RABBIT AND CACTUS - a Mixiotes dish
.. Prehispanic foods did not have wheat, did not have beef, did not have pork, did not have cheese, did not have rice, etc.
.. Prehispanic peoples were widely scattered in nation states in a sub-continental  region with diverse environments and resources. From snowy mountain valleys to high plateau tundra and steppe, from desert to deep jungle, from temperate sea shore to tropical sea shore; a diversity greater than many nations.
.. Why mention this?  Because, the techniques for preparing the food in each culture and, region from the past persist today.
.. Meat from rabbits, dogs, iguanas, parrots, monkeys, tortoise, snakes etc. were prepared in specific ways - and subsequently adapted to new meats as they arrived.
ROASTED CHAPULINES
.. Aztec preparations differ from Olmec preparations and, differ from Mayan preparations, etc.
.. To state the obvious: boiled corn is far different than roasted corn. Popcorn is different than ground corn, etc.
.. Fried surf perch is a far cry from raw trout or even roasted limpets.
.. Now then, back to the funny stuff. Across most of Prehispanic Mexico, insects were roasted. One of our neighbors suggested that the biggest changes during the Spanish invasion was the change from roasted crickets to roasted Spaniards.
.. Or, using the armor breastplate the feast was Spaniard on the half shell. There was much more!
.. Outside of the cities where tourists go in Mexico there persists the 'ways of old.' Bags of roasted grasshoppers and crickets are ubiquitous.
.. Peanuts and papaya are favorite snack foods. Tacos with just avocado, tomato, and boiled beans are a delicacy. 
.. In the desert areas cactus is in everything, including tacos. On the sea shore fish and other seafood is in all of it. Authentic Mexican food is food prepared in the regional manner from which it comes.
.. It is not deep fried in a basket of synthetic oil. It is not whipped up in a blender or food processor. It is not what we grew up with in North Dakota or Whittier, Alaska. Not in restaurants prepared by a Spanish speaking cook trained by the Norwegian owner's wife.
.. It can be beef tacos or, fish tacos or, pork tacos. But ground beef is rare in most of Mexico. Deep fried tilapia is nearly unheard of. Water boiled pork disguised as carnitas is a sacrilege.
TEXCALATE
.. One of the great gifts to the world from Mesoamerica is chocolate.
.. Both Prehispanic and contemporary dishes can be loaded with chocolate. Seldom do you see a good mole or even a fake taxcalate.
.. For those of you interested in an authentic Mexican beverage, (not mescal or tequila,) try taxcalate.
.. It is a drink for only the most powerful among you: roasted corn, hot chilis of your choice, chocolate, achiote, sugar, cinnamon, water - (milk for you Post hispnics.)
.. Grind all ingredients in a molcajete to a very fine paste, add water, (or milk,) to form a thick slurry:  Está muy fuerte!
.. So the next time your friendly neighborhood "foodie" tells you about Comida mexicana auténtica. Just ask, (in a non threatening manner,) what part of Mexico is it from?
.. There is nothing wrong with "MEXICAN FOOD" served in most restaurants. Most of it tastes very good. It may even be 'Mexican' as defined by the cook or, the owner or, the neighbors.
.. Enjoy it and don't allow the subtle tyranny of words convince you that it's not really authentic.
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ENGLISH BUZZER
.. Overcast, light rain, broken clouds = conditions for small midge nymphs in Beartrap Canyon. We do have it on good authority.
.. Best get out there now. The creeks, they are a-rise'n and, the color will come soon enough.
.. It's nap time.
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WALLPAPER: AUTHENTIC CARNITAS BOILED IN LARD